Bodysgallen Hall

Here is one very good reason to visit north Wales. Bodysgallen Hall has more than just its 35 rooms, spa, tennis courts, 200 acres of gardens, park & woodlands & personal service to recommend it; also on offer is some exceptional cuisine courtesy of chef John Williams. For a start, he has profound things to say about pure, focused flavours, whether in a dish of grilled fillet of red mullet with citrus & wild rocket salad, or a main of poached corn-fed chicken with wholegrain mustard butter sauce & caramelised onion mash. This is cooking that’s sufficiently adventurous & visually stimulating to generate excitement, but is balanced by finely honed discipline. Desserts also keep up the exemplary standards, if a stunning warm chocolate fondant with milk sorbet & Griottine cherries is anything to go by. It’s all superbly backed up by some intelligent wine choices from around the world. A good-value lunch ensures a decent clutch of regulars, & service remains in the grand country-house tradition – attentive, if a little formal.