Bodysgallen Hall has a great deal to going for it, from a spa & tennis courts to 200 acres of lavish grounds. It also offers some exceptional cuisine, courtesy of chef Gareth Jones. His cooking is adventurous & visually stimulating, but excitement is tempered with finely honed discipline. He also delights in flavour, whether in a stuffed saddle of wild rabbit served with leek, potato & whipped saffron vinaigrette or slow-poached hake with olive oil mash, girolles, shallot & tarragon reduction. Desserts also maintain the exemplary standards – if a stunning roasted hazelnut mousse with bitter chocolate sorbet, warm brioche & vanilla-seed sabayon is anything to go by. The food is superbly supported by an intelligent global wine list. Good-value lunches attract the regulars, & service is in the grand tradition – attentive, personal & polished, if a little formal. For something more casual, try the Coach House brasserie.