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Apicius

23 Stone Street, Cranbrook, Kent TN17 3HE

£32.00 Modern European Kent
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Square Meal Review of Apicius ?

A simple modern makeover has freshened up this unassuming, timber-clad, shop-fronted restaurant, which now mixes charming old beams & floorboards with fashionable high-backed dining chairs & white-clothed tables. Booking is essential, but one of the joys of this small-scale operation is its telling mix of unstuffy, friendliness & highly accomplished food. Tim Johnson has worked with the likes of Nico Ladenis & Andrew McLeish (Chapter One, Locksbottom) & his cooking adheres to a classic French blueprint. Simplicity is the key to his refined, unfussy style, with tip-top local & seasonal produce defining his credit crunch-friendly, fixed-price menus – witness dishes such as roast John Dory fillet partnered by Nicola potatoes, oven-roast tomatoes & baby spinach, or classic tarte tatin accompanied by a green apple sorbet & cider cream.

Overall Diner Rating

5.7
Food & Drink
7.3
Service
6.7
Atmosphere
5.7
Value
5.7

Based on 3 ratings. Rate it!

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  1. Jonesy
    Silver Reviewer

    Jonesy ( 30s, Male, London )

    December 2009

    A starter of deep fried cod brandade with a parmesan crisp, rocket salad and aioli was a delicate concoction belaying an experienced hand and palate. The brandade, a posh fishcake, was juicy and meaty; the aioli was good enough to eat a bucketful (not recommended on a first date).

    The main course, a slow roast shoulder of Kentish pork accompanied by crunchy crackling, creamed potato, Savoy cabbage and caramelised apples, was as delicious as it sounds. The maitre d’, Mrs Johnson, told us that nobody makes mashed potato like her husband. And she was right.

    By now I was finding it hard to contain my excitement about the dessert. Enter stage left, chocolate and crème fraiche mousse with Bailey’s ice cream and a spiced orange ‘soup’. The nail was hit squarely on the head once again. In the words of the greedy Valentine Warner, “Wow, wow…Wow.”

    At £29.95 for three courses of this quality, you can’t help feeling that something magical really is at work here. It’s not only the food and the service that surpass all expectations, even the little dining room manages to feel larger than it is, without losing any of its intimacy.

    Read the full review at The Arbuturian.

    • Overall: 9
    • Food & Drink: 9
    • Service: 9
    • Atmosphere: 9
    • Value: 9
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Essential Details for Apicius

  • Address: 23 Stone Street, Cranbrook, Kent TN17 3HE
  • Telephone: 01580 714666
  • Website: Visit Apicius
  • Opening Hours: Weds-Fri & Sun 12N-2pm Tues-Sat 7-9pm
  • Cuisine: Modern European
  • Area: Kent
  • Price: £32.00
  • Wine: £16.00
  • Champagne: £24.00
  • Lunch: ££11.50/15.50/19.50 (1/2/3 courses)
  • Dinner: ££19.50/23.50 (2/3 courses)

Been to this restaurant? Write a comment

Write Your Review
  • 1Win fab prizes with free monthly prize draws!
  • 2See your views in print.
  • 3Collect your thoughts in one place.
  • 4Be rewarded with an Editor's Pick.
  • 5Rate restaurants and share your views.

Diner reviews for Apicius

  1. Jonesy
    Silver Reviewer

    Jonesy ( 30s, Male, London )

    December 2009

    A starter of deep fried cod brandade with a parmesan crisp, rocket salad and aioli was a delicate concoction belaying an experienced hand and palate. The brandade, a posh fishcake, was juicy and meaty; the aioli was good enough to eat a bucketful (not recommended on a first date).

    The main course, a slow roast shoulder of Kentish pork accompanied by… More

    • Overall: 9
    • Food & Drink: 9
    • Service: 9
    • Atmosphere: 9
    • Value: 9
    Was it helpful to you?
     
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