Apicius
| Address: | 23 Stone Street, Cranbrook, Kent TN17 3HE | |
|---|---|---|
| Tel | 01580 714666 | |
| Price:
£32.00 |
Wine: £16.00 |
Champagne: £24.00 |
| Opening Hours: | Weds-Fri & Sun 12N-2pm Tues-Sat 7-9pm |
|
Square Meal review of Apicius: 
The intimate shop front restaurant has been given a simple, modern makeover, while the menu follows a classic French blueprint – refined but not over fussy in style – with dishes ranging from smoked duck breast with foie gras veloute & confit leg ballottine to pan-fried fillet of turbot with baby leeks, salt-roasted potatoes & rocket pesto. A delicate juxtaposition of texture & taste was displayed in a ballotine of guinea fowl & pheasant with celeriac remoulade & Cumberland sauce. Equally accomplished, a main course of boneless osso bucco had gutsy flavour & was accompanied by perfect mashed potato, although the deep-fried marrow sounded an off note. The undisputed star of the meal, however, was an iced hazelnut mousse of rich, silky texture & intense nutty flavour. This is quality cooking at credit card-friendly with wine prices to match. An impressive place with attentive, unhurried service ‘that would give almost all of the bigger & more expensive London restaurants a run for their money’.

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