Redoubtable family-run Kalpna has been serving terrific Indian vegetarian food to the citizens of Edinburgh for nigh on 30 years and shows no signs of slowing down. The place has been modernised over time, with some interesting mirrored artwork now catching the eye, but the whole experience hasn’t changed a jot – go when it’s busy if you enjoy some atmosphere with your food. Aside from the lunchtime buffet (an all-in spread for £8 a head), the menu centres on traditional dishes including tarka dhal or palak paneer, plus thalis and regional specialities. Dinner could offer hara bara kebab to start (fried spinach patties filled with homemade cheese and ground herbs), then perhaps baingan achari (aubergine cooked in hot North Indian spices with tomato, onion, garlic and red chilli flakes) or a South Indian classic such as masala dosa. Even carnivores may be seduced.