Heston Blumenthal’s first pub venture, directly opposite The Fat Duck, offers fuss-free decor and expanses of dark wood alongside a straightforward menu of gutsy Brit-themed food “with fun Heston twists”. The oxtail and kidney pudding is a must, likewise the snail hash, veal sirloin with soused onions and prime Herefordshire rib-eye with bone-marrow sauce. Other dishes are viewed through a contemporary lens – perhaps smoked guinea fowl and foie gras terrine or fillet of Cornish plaice with samphire, pickled cucumber, grapes and horseradish cream. As for dessert, the banana-and-custard ‘quaking pudding’ comes highly recommended. “Little things” such as individual gravy boats also mean a lot here. Prices may be high for a pub, but ever-helpful, chilled-out staff ensure this is a destination for every occasion. Real ales and decent wines by the glass help fuel the buzzy atmosphere in the bar.