Back in 1962, Malcolm Reid and Colin Long converted what was a local teashop into one of the country’s most idiosyncratic restaurants. Fast-forward more than 40 years, and current hosts Simon and Rena Gueller have cemented its reputation as a Michelin-starred icon of the North Country dining scene. Some of the old eccentricities have been ironed out, but the retro interior still pays homage to striped wallpaper and paisley upholstery. By contrast, the kitchen is bang in tune with the times, delivering a clever, refined and many-layered take on modern Franco-European cuisine in the shape of, say, seared hand-dived scallops with pumpkin purée and wild mushroom ragoût or a feast of organic pork comprising fillet, confit belly and boudin noir with creamed cabbage and morels. Desserts also hit the high notes – perhaps a feuilletine of Yorkshire rhubarb with basil pannacotta. A pedigree wine list adds even more lustre to proceedings.