An out-of-the-way, traditional-looking farmhouse in the Snowdonia National Park seems an unlikely candidate for a metropolitan makeover, but the contemporary interior of stone, wood, leather & glass creates a clean, calming look that is a welcome change from the country house chintz so prevalent in these parts. Certainly the well-heeled thirty-somethings grabbing short breaks here get the point, & appreciate the quietly charming, professional service. The cooking is creative without being over the top, delivered on a daily changing menu with just two choices per course until dessert. Warm blue cheese tart (made with locally produced Gorau Glas) with pear, lovage & walnut relish could set the ball rolling, followed by loin of organic Bryn Dowsi lamb with garlic & rosemary mash, sauteed sweet red onions, balsamic & roasted hazelnut oil dressing, with summer fruit & red wine jelly to finish. As the restaurant seats just twelve people, booking is essential.