This impressively located, rustic guesthouse dates from the 16th century and deals in unabashed tranquillity, with an extra helping of panoramic views over Snowdonia. But don’t expect plumped-up county-house chic here – the decor is a fashionably modern mix of neutral colours and natural textures that is matched by cooking which surprises with its light touch and up-to-the-minute approach. The concise fixed-price dinner menu (for residents only) is ingredients-led, with highlights including baked sea trout from the Conwy Estuary partnered by wild rice and fennel risotto or local beef fillet served with crisp fried potato and black pudding dumpling, wilted red-vein cabbage, caramelised onion and rich beef gravy. To start, you might be offered carpaccio of marinated tuna with Orme crab and herb tomato jelly, while dessert could bring baked pineapple lasagne topped with soft meringue and ginger ice cream.
A good selection, but at fewer than 100 bins, not remotely overwhelming. What’s more, because the list is separated by broad style, it’s easy for the uninitiated to find what they want, particularly given some helpful tasting notes and lower-than-average mark-ups. A sub-section of ‘classics’ might have helped for those looking for Rioja, say, but for such a small place (12 covers) this is a truly impressive list.