L'Ortolan

Symphonic food experience courtesy of the sous chef, now responsible here, surprised us. Not only was it impeccably and prettily presented, but tastes were sublime, something Alan Murchison (now the Exec. Chef) previously didn’t quite manage.

Compatibility of ingredients pervaded both starter and main course – we didn’t manage desserts. A symmetrical sheet of duck confit topped with cherry sorbet, pan fried foie gras, whole cherries, plus a couple of smoked duck slices very agreeably kicked things off for us both….not that amuse bouche and breads didn't please. Brill served on a slab of ham hock with white beans, peas, a deep green & light green puree, figure as one of the most flavourful fish mains I’ve had. Veal was terrific too augmented well by summer veg. [£55/head 3 courses.]

Internationally balanced wine list, but few very reasonably priced, though good selection by the glass. We were fortunate to have an excellent Pomerol at £60. Service generally a bit on the starchy side, but I learnt from the passionate sommelier why this wine (apparently lost some weight through sediment) suited me more so than my other half who favours the serious heavies – news to me but sounds feasible.

This country restaurant gets away with a formal – kind of plush interior, which is a bit OTT and rather 90’s – because you feel comfortably seated with ample breathing space.

I feel privileged to have eaten the chef’s efforts, given the superb standard of our last meal nr. Leamington Spa which I didn’t expect to be equalled so soon.

Enough to evoke a strong desire to return.