Biddenden is an idyllic Kent village of half-timbered buildings with this impressive country restaurant at its heart. Set in a row of ancient Flemish weavers’ cottages, West House isn’t short on character. The dining room may play up the Olde English look with its weathered beams, wood fire & bare floorboards, but smart, sympathetic restyling has added a light, easy-on-the-eye modern touch (think white walls, contemporary artwork & fashionable cream leather chairs). It’s an unstuffy platform for chef-patron Graham Garrett’s confident, fine-tuned modern cooking. He learnt his craft with Nico Ladenis & Richard Corrigan in London before opening here in 2002, & flair shines through his attractive repertoire of wallet-friendly, crisply scripted menus driven by local produce. Wicks Manor pork belly served with carrot & honey puree & rhubarb pannacotta partnered by a ginger Madeleine are good examples of Garrett’s deceptively simple, less-is-more school of cooking.