Plas Bodegroes

Mature beech trees & fine lawns front this Georgian restaurant with rooms, where the unfussiness & comfort of the decor extend to the excellent service & food. Regulars from near & far are attracted by Chris Chown’s daily changing menus of dishes reflecting both season & locality. Amusing & delicious appetisers of Kentucky fried guinea fowl (confit wing tip served with coriander relish) may precede an exemplary truffled mushroom tart with rocket & salami, followed by fragrant mountain lamb with Welsh onion cake & intense rosemary jus, or beautifully timed seared sea bass with caramelised chicory & vanilla sauce. Bara brith (Welsh fruit bread) & butter pudding with whisky ice-cream is a signature dessert. Surprise & quality characterise the wine list, too, whether you choose a zingy Galician Albarino or a giant claret. Note: closes between November & March.

Wine List Of The Year

Michelin-starred this lovely Georgian country house hotel might be, but the pricing policy on the wine list is admirable. Traditionally presented by region, there are helpful (and personal) comments introducing each section, and the idea of marking a white’s sweetness (1-9) and a red’s body (A-E) is neat.