JSW

Housed in a 17th-century coaching inn, this charming restaurant-with-rooms has all the prerequisites of its age: old beams, a well, a cellar (now stocked with 700 wines) & three tunnels to other buildings in the ancient town – including one leading to a defunct nunnery. The cream-coloured dining room is as spare as the less-is-more style of cooking of Michelin-starred chef, Jake Watkins. He believes in English seasonality, with fish coming from nearby Solent, beef & lamb from Cumbria. Technically brilliant dishes may include scallops with cauliflower purée, partridge terrine with pickled quince or wild sea bass with a fennel risotto. Otherwise, come here for the grouse with creamed cabbage, & be sure to sample outstanding desserts such as a chocolate & olive oil delice with malt ice-cream, which show off Jake’s culinary prowess to the full. Service is faultless, & the wine list is a remarkable tome.