Steve Drake’s restaurant is situated in a beautiful & imposing Georgian building, where he cooks the kind of precise, flavoursome food that wins Michelin stars. Diners can enjoy the likes of scallops with sweetcorn, chicory, Jerusalem artichoke & truffle meringue as a starter, followed by saddle of lamb teamed with slow-cooked belly & beans flavoured with thyme & chicory. For pudding, spiced eggy bread & black pepper ice cream is the perfect partner to pear roasted with liquorice. Service, led by Steve’s wife Serina, is friendly & efficient.
With wines split up by
style (‘Dry, Crisp and Refreshing’; ‘Aromatic and Floral’ for instance) and including helpful tasting notes and info on the grape varieties, the Drakes list conveys an awful lot in a painless,
easy-to-follow fashion. Nice to see some local vineyards in there, but a few more suppliers wouldn’t go amiss. Shortlisted for the second year on the trot, Drakes offers a lesson in clarity.