L'Enclume

Nothing could be further from nostalgic lakeland sentimentality than Simon Rogan’s groundbreaking restaurant-with-rooms in a former blacksmith’s shop. There’s a lively culinary intelligence at work here, and Rogan’s artistry is seldom less than note-perfect. A visually stunning creation involving two varieties of carrot, presented with slivers of ham fat and a sprinkling of nasturtium flowers, is typical of Rogan’s talent for drawing pure, undiluted flavours from his ingredients. This is subtle cooking with a real sense of fun, matched by fine service. Wine List: Variety is the watchword for this list, which offers a commendable choice of wine styles, grape varieties, regions, countries, prices & formats. Grand vins including a 1983 Pétrus (£1,200) sit happily alongside reasonably priced crowd pleasers such as Pewsey Vale Riesling from Australia’s Eden Valley (£24). Best Buy White 2006 Château d’Ampuis, Côtes du Rhône, E Guigal, Rhône, France, £28. Best Buy Red 2004 Alpha Domus Merlot, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, £38.