This congenial catacomb in the city’s financial sector seethes with suits at lunchtime and plays host to a rumbustious, good-time crowd in the evenings. The attractions are Sous Le Nez’s relaxed but sparky atmosphere, moderate prices and magisterial, all-encompassing wine list. The labyrinth of cellar dining rooms is as bright and light as ever, while the menu remains agreeably cosmopolitan and rich in choice. Robust meat dishes are a strong suit, although the kitchen’s main focus is seafood: flavours are eclectic and the kitchen casts its net wide, taking in everything from smoked salmon and haddock fishcakes or seared salmon with apple and fennel salad to olive-crusted lamb rump, cassoulet or venison haunch and sausage with sweet potato purée, beetroot chutney and whisky sauce. To finish, perhaps try passion fruit tart. There’s also a ‘salon privé’ for private bashes.
A list with personality, this does its job brilliantly. Tasting notes for every wine, and highly informative, funny, sometimes controversial musings on wine regions, people and wines. An extremely good selection of Bordeaux makes this a list for the serious wine lover and the novice alike.