Sous le Nez en Ville

This congenial catacomb in the city’s financial sector seethes at lunchtime with suits. They come, like the more unstructured evening crowd, for the relaxed but sparky atmosphere, the consistency of Andrew Carter’s cooking, moderate prices and a wine list the length of the M1. The sequence of cellar dining rooms are now brightened and lightened while the menu remains as agreeably cosmopolitan and rich in choice as ever. Meat and offal are strong points, but its chief focus is fish which enjoys two menus (one written, the other blackboard) and eclectic treatment (sardines with Dijon and cashew nut sabayon; sauteed scallops with samphire and chilli).