A couple of miles from Leeds city centre, Chapel Allerton has a growing community of neighbourhood restaurants, among them this pleasing, contemporary Thai venue. Its elaborate menu runs to more than 100 dishes, but swift cooking – as in chicken & duck livers fried with garlic, herbs, spices & oyster sauce – adds to the immediacy & punch. Steamed crab with bean-thread noodles, spring onion, coriander & Chinese leaves or spicy marinated duck fried with garlic & pepper are typical of the style & artful presentation. Service is all smiles & courtesy, & the atmosphere has an air of peaceful well-being. Short, useful wine list, too. There’s another branch in St Annes Road, Headingley (tel: 0113 278 1234).