Malmaison Leeds

This boutique-hotel group has found a niche in the riverside sector. The kitchen works to a mainstream brasserie menu that might feature eggs benedict, grilled asparagus with shaved Parmesan and smoked salmon blinis. Fillet of sea bass, perfectly roasted and partnered by sturdy but melting chips, is typical. The place itself is endlessly suave and waiters zip about as if their trousers are alight. Atmosphere can’t always be guaranteed, which – at these prices – deters some. Wines from top-drawer producers.