Perched on the top floor of a city-centre block, Oloroso opened in 2001. It’s smart & modern, with a glass-sided dining room, balcony tables & some great views; you can also eat in the adjacent lounge bar, & capable staff know how to mix a decent cocktail too. The grill menu offers a selection of quality meat & seafood cooked to order: medium-rare rib-eye for example with sauce au poivre, house chips & salad. Going à la carte could yields three courses along the lines of asparagus with olive oil, lemon & parmesan, duck breast in broth with Chinese-style dumplings, & coconut & lime pannacotta with coconut sorbet & biscotti for dessert. While grills remain the best option, prices are pitched high: steak & chips for two, plus a bottle of basic red, can top £80 – never mind starters, puds or coffee.