The restaurant at the gaspingly stylish Malmaison Hotel is so good-looking you may fear the food couldn’t possibly live up to it. Happily, it easily manages to keep its end up, though unlike the modern & arty interior, the menu sensibly restricts itself to the classics – moules mariniere, eggs Benedict, confit of duck, & steak-frites – fairly simple brasserie fare with perhaps an occasional updating tweak here & there (say roasted monkfish coupled with saffron risotto, or fillet of red snapper with preserved lemon). The dishes work because they use decent ingredients & quality shines through. While you tuck in, feel free to admire the beautiful soft furnishings or plan an after-dinner drink in the equally stunning bar.

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