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Square Meal Review of The Burlington Restaurant at Devonshire Arms Country House Hotel
The sumptuous Devonshire Arms in Lower Wharfedale cossets its guests from the moment tyres crunch on gravel. Fine dining takes place in the plush Burlington Restaurant, and the kitchen’s
Michelin-starred endeavours are characterised by complex, highly technical work and intense flavours. Fixed-price, multi-course menus are the order of the day, moving from Goosnargh duck textures
with duck liver parfait, rhubarb and hibiscus or Orkney scallop teamed with celeriac, smoked eel, apple and truffle to plates of slow-cooked beef sirloin with onion, bone marrow and nasturtium.
Desserts also show élan and artistry, witness ‘chocolate mayhem’ with lime and salted peanuts or a summery combo of elderflower, strawberry and Champagne. The culinary fireworks are underpinned by
impeccable service and a world-class wine cellar with some 30,000 bottles – starting below £20 and zooming up to five figures for the bonus schemers.