What strikes most about Frances Atkins’ cooking is its clear identity. Her style is simple, concentrating on the quality & flavour of the ingredients rather than messing about with them. The result is superb & effortless – there is enough on each plate to maintain interest, but not so much that it muddies the picture. Seasonality plays a huge part, & in the autumn & winter months, a lot of game appears on her menu; so much so that Frances often feels at a loss when the season is over. But a spring menu could bring cep tart with foie gras boudin & broad beans ahead of roast veal kidney & shin with tomato & spring vegetables, or hand-reared chicken with morel & pea & rosemary gnocchi, & Grand Marnier & chocolate souffle for dessert. Factor in a gem of a setting opposite the village green & a rustic, chic pair of dining rooms, & you can understand why this Michelin-starred restaurant with rooms seems to go from strength to strength.