Over the years, Chewton Glen has evolved from a traditional country house retreat into a small resort – and the food side of things has recently seen a full-strength comeback after a period in the doldrums. Much of the puffed-up formality has been ditched, and the result is Vetiver – a stylish and confident venue spread over five rooms. Expect a flexible, open-minded menu loaded with bright, thrilling flavours from all over the world: yellowfin tuna tartare with Lebanese cucumber and wasabi dressing; twice-baked Emmental soufflé; roast rabbit with Pommery mustard and basil pappardelle; cardamom-spiced duck breast with Asian vegetable broth; beer-battered cod and chips with marjoram peas. Grills and roasts from the trolley add some meaty oomph, while puds might run from iced honey parfait to treacle tart with orange-flower cream. Wine buffs can rest assured that Chewton Glen’s superlative, 700-bin list is still going strong.