Over the years, Chewton Glen has evolved and expanded from a traditional country house retreat into a small resort – and the food side of things has recently launched a full-strength comeback after a period in the doldrums. Starched formality has been ditched (as have canapés and amuse-bouches), and the result is a restaurant called Vetiver – a stylish space that exudes confidence and casual excellence. The menu yields the utmost satisfaction from impeccable ingredients: roasted heritage beets teamed with young Salisbury goats’ cheese and hazelnuts or New Forest pheasant served with a lightly smoked pomme purée and boozy sauce meurette. And if Bramley apple and golden sultana pie doesn’t appeal, check out the array of seasonal cheeses from Hampshire and beyond. Wine buffs will be pleased to learn that the 700-bin list is still going strong.