Glasgow's benchmark for fine Italian cooking since 1978, and run by the same family all that time, La Parmigiana resists all temptations to bend to fashion and instead sticks to what it does best. That means a classic style of cuisine, an interesting Italian wine list with some heavyweight reds, and service that deserves no less a word than dignified. The decor is unobtrusive: quiet art prints, wood panelling, Mediterranean roof tiles high on yellow walls, and white beamed ceiling. Pre-theatre represents something of a bargain (£12.50 for two courses) while specials and a la carte could bring three courses like butterfly-cut grilled langoustine to start, so fresh they were moving when they hit the kitchen, or maybe lobster ravioli with cream and basil sauce; then risotto in bianco with generous chunks of assorted seafood as a main, or maybe duck breast with grape and red wine sauce; classic tiramisu for dessert. Good coffee too, and you might even spot the odd local celebrity having a quiet evening with the family; it's the kind of establishment where regulars trust in its discretion.