A listed Georgian frontage hides contemporary contents at this popular, centrally located address, where both cooking & decor are ambitious & modern. Start with drinks in the basement bistro/bar before heading back upstairs to the cool dining room for the likes of crispy braised pork cheek with pickled red cabbage, parsley & poached duck egg, seared fillet of sea bream with confit lemon gnocchi or roast rump of Cumbrian lamb with carrot purée, baby carrots, leek ribbons & a mini shepherd’s pie. Deep-fried jam sandwich with Carnation milk ice cream is the sort of quirky dessert to expect, although the assortment of British & Irish cheeses is an enticing alternative.