The modern Scottish cooking is every bit as diverting as the view from this dinner-only restaurant overlooking the renowned Old & New courses, the golden sandy beach & the sea. Day-fresh, hazel nut-crusted scallops delicately seared & moated by a celeriac puree enhanced with the sharp accompaniments of celery, apple & truffle salad & a truffle froth typifies the kitchen’s style of updating classical combinations. At main course stage a dish of roasted loin of lamb is served with steamed mutton & caper pudding, root vegetable pave, carrot purée & braised tongue – all with a minimum of fuss for a maximum of pleasure. Friendly service & the help of a globetrotting sommelier add to the enjoyment & the next-door bar promises a boozy end to the evening – it’s the only one in the world to stock at least one malt whisky representative of every Scottish distillery, past or present. For a less expensive & less formal dining option, the ground floor Sands restaurant is worth a look & it’s also open at lunch.