A steep and winding driveway hints at the spectacular vista that greets visitors to this stunningly located hotel above Lake Windermere. Once inside, the views are sadly confined to a couple of bedrooms and all but the window seats of the colonial-feeling lounge, but even if you miss out on gazing across the lake, rest assured the cooking is more than enough diversion. A succinctly-written menu conveys the kitchen’s punchy flavours: lemon and capers cut through a well-sourced piece of fat-free salmon; a nobbly ham terrine is packed with nuggets of flavour and perfectly served by a vinegary piccalilli; corn-fed chicken acts as a conduit for a rich mushroom sauce; sticky toffee pudding is brilliantly light but doesn’t skimp on taste. Save space for an award-winning cheeseboard showcasing the more obscure offerings from around the British Isles. Service is on the shy side but does the job well.