Airds hotel and its pretty restaurant are rural, but on the social radar: Stella McCartney honeymooned here, and no doubt lapped up the venue’s terrific views of the west Highlands during her sojourn. Current chef Jordan Annabi is Scottish born and bred, and takes full advantage of Appin’s year-round harvest of prime local ingredients. A starter of plump hand-dredged scallops is given piquant accents with aubergine purée, cauliflower pakora and pickled cauliflower, while mains might bring salted West Coast cod with a savoury mussel gratin and smoky pea and ham fricassee or roast loin of new season’s lamb – ‘tender as an angel’s kiss’. To finish, try wild strawberry mousseline or wait a wee while for caramel soufflé enriched by some mouth-puckering salted-peanut ice cream and aerated chocolate. The wine list oozes class, while service is gracious, exact and charming.