30 July 2014

The River Restaurant at The Lowry Hotel

Lowry Hotel, 50 Dearmans Place, Chapel Wharf, Manchester, Lancashire M3 5LH

£52.00 Modern European Lancashire
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  • Wine: £26.00
  • Champagne: £48.00
  • Opening Hours: Mon-Fri 5.30pm-10pm; Sat 5.30pm-10.30pm; Sun 6.30pm-10pm

Square Meal Review of The River Restaurant at The Lowry Hotel ?

As the only five-star hotel in Manchester’s trendy northern quarter, expectations are high at The Lowry's Riverside Restaurant. Thankfully, it doesn't dissapoint. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer up a cityscape of the quirky, colourful buildings that have contributed much to Manchester's cool factor in the last 20 years, with the terrace overlooking the River Irwell making a great summer suntrap. The menu is contemporary British, with good-quality local produce well represented. Lancashire ham hock with piccalilli proves a delicious start, while crustacea from Morecambe and Whitby Bay is well presented and perfectly dressed. Plenty of steak is offered up for main – five cuts in all – served with a simple béarnaise sauce, while grilled halibut and Dover sole with hollandaise make pleasing alternatives. Service is attentive but not overly formal and the wine list – as you’d expect from a hotel of such stature – pays homage to the world’s top regions and producers with prices to match.

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  1. The Lowry Hotel is rightly regarded as the best in Manchester but its restaurant hasn’t always had the same reputation. Marco Pierre White failed with ‘The River Room’ almost 10 years ago while it’s replacement, ‘The River Restaurant’ was apparently excellent between 2006 – 2010 but has had mixed reviews in recent years. It’s those reviews that had stopped me visiting previously but when I heard the restaurant was to be relaunched as ‘The River Bar and Grill’ - reflecting a simpler menu, cooked on a charcoal grill – with a new head chef I wondered if it was worth a visit. A few days later I was invited to preview the new menu which seemed a perfect opportunity to find out...
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