Joan and Rob Reen made Ynyshir Hall the arty, luxurious retreat it is today, so it’s fitting that after a stint with the now-defunct Von Essen group the hotel is back in their hands. They’ve marked the transition with some big spending; interiors have been sharpened up and a spa is being built, along with two new garden suites. They have also installed a new chef, whose creative approach to Welsh ingredients shines through in everything from a beautifully balanced amuse of meaty, smoked Wye Valley eel with crisp cabbage and apple to a starter of sherry-roasted foie gras with gingerbread and liver parfait. Sweet/savoury pairings appear again in roast loin of Rhug venison with parsnip, vanilla, chocolate and fat blackberries, as well as a fresh, fruity bay-leaf parfait with tomato and orange. Backed by expertly chosen wines, this is memorable, inventive cooking.