Ynyshir Hall

Deep in the Welsh countryside, romantic Ynyshir Hall is a one-off, decorated with individuality, colour & flair; note the walls festooned with lavish paintings by former owner Rob Reen. His wife Joan stayed on as manager when they sold the hotel a few years ago, & she is a real asset to the place. Michelin-starred chef Shane Hughes has moved on, but the kitchen is still known for its precision, invention & dedication to spanking fresh produce. A ballottine of wild rabbit with a pie made from the leg might precede roasted sea bass accompanied by sautéed ceps, confit garlic & sea beet, while desserts put on the style for, say, black cherry soufflé with cherry sorbet. Meals are embellished with lots of frills, & the 300-bin wine list has something for all tastes & budgets, including an impressive collection from Bordeaux.