23 August 2014

Ynyshir Hall

Eglwysfach, Mid Wales SY20 8TA

£65.00 British Mid Wales
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  • Wine: £19.00
  • Champagne: £34.00
  • Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 12.30-2pm 7-8.45pm

Square Meal Review of Ynyshir Hall ?

Joan and Rob Reen’s intimate, exquisite country house hotel – once favoured by Queen Victoria – is more beautiful than ever thanks to new garden suites and replenished, colourful pop decor (including some new paintings by Rob himself). Ynyshir Hall has been on the culinary map for years, but it’s now scaling new heights with former Sat Bains protégé Gareth Ward at the stoves. Order the longer menu (roughly 11 courses) for maximum thrills, and expect a barrage of deconstructed, intensified delights: ‘not French onion soup’ (an umami hit of onion and miso paste, dashi stock and sea vegetables); butter-soft ‘chicken and stuffing’ with sage and onion oil; goats’ curd plus a bubbling nitrogen cauldron of steaming hay for that field-fresh scent, and a transcendental re-imagining of tiramisu featuring coffee purée and Marsala spray. This is modern, forward-looking cooking of the highest order, best sampled with the sommelier’s choice from an impressive wine list.

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