Since taking the reins in 2007, chef/proprietor Graeme Pallister has gone from strength to strength at 63 Tay Street – a bright and airy space next to the pretty river Tay. Creating a destination restaurant while keeping the locals happy isn’t always an easy task, but Pallister has worked hard to realise his guiding principles of ‘local, honest, simple’ – and is doing the Scottish larder proud in the process. A reasonably priced set dinner menu (£37 for three courses) might offer up creamy Isle of Mull scallops in crisp, crunchy puff pastry, fillet of sea trout with Loch Nevis langoustine chasseur, perfectly cooked Aberdeen Angus steak (from the separate char-grill menu) and traditional desserts such as treacle tart or rhubarb crumble, all delivered with creative modern flair. The wine list is also first–rate – no wonder the place also attracts punters from further afield.
An extraordinary number of wines for such a small place (36 covers), including – impressively – 18 by the glass, and 37 half-bottles. The food-and-wine-matching grid remains a unique stroke of genius (albeit not a beautiful one), and some of the prices are terrific. £89 for 1995 Langoa-Barton, anyone?