Thackeray's

Once the home of writer & satirist William Makepeace Thackeray, the oldest building in Tunbridge Wells looks good with its all-white, New England exterior. Inside, it’s beautifully maintained with glowing lamps, muted colours & exuberantly furnished private rooms – although the place can exude a certain stuffiness. However, Richard Phillips’ modern French cooking deserves its exalted reputation. Hare & ham hock ballottine served with pickled wild mushrooms, quince jelly, baby leeks & toasted sourdough makes for a tantalising starter followed, perhaps, by an assiette of Berkshire pork teamed with pomme purée, braised cabbage, apple compote, ginger & clove jus. Desserts could feature loganberry soufflé with pistachio ice cream, & the cheese list has a fine balance of both British & French specimens. Prices can sting, but the set lunch is a bargain.