A restaurant-with-rooms on a grand scale, the star-spangled Vineyard at Stockcross has entered a new chapter. Gone is the molecular trickery that was previous incumbent John Campbell’s trademark; in its place, expect classic cooking in the contemporary style. Unlike some of his celeb peers, new boy Daniel Galmiche is in the kitchen most nights & is happy to chat after service. Staff are polite yet personable, while pastel-coloured soft furnishings add to the comfortably sedate ambience. By contrast, the cooking is haute – with light touches & an emphasis on British produce. Highlights include a verdant pea velouté brilliantly punctured by smoked bacon foam, & a ruby-red medallion of Balmoral venison teamed with dainty celeriac-packed cannelloni & carrot purée. To finish, a picture-perfect assembly of Lilliputian shortbread with slivers & pearls of Granny Smith apple, fromage blanc & a heady Calvados sorbet, demonstrates the kitchen’s ambition. A dip into the wine cellars is a must.
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