For years, this tranquil Lutyens-style house in 10 acres of pristine grounds has been synonymous with pedigree – a mood that spills over into its flagship Dining Room. Oak panelling, tapestry carpets and soft lighting set a quietly luxurious tone, although the food has something more modern to say. Chef Paul Foster arrived here from high-ranking Tuddenham Mill in Suffolk, and has set about adding some extra British oomph to the cooking. Fixed-price lunches provide a warm-up, but the kitchen really hits the high notes with its limited-choice dinner menu: starters of blackened mackerel fillet with confit fennel, soy and lime might precede pheasant breast with truffle mash and pears or sea bass with Jerusalem artichoke textures and charred leek. To finish, Anglo-European cheeses are an alternative to desserts such as caramelised lemon curd tartlet with blueberries and pine nuts. The wine list majors on pricey, sophisticated drinking.