The Bell at Skenfrith

Set snug beneath green hills, this immaculate gastropub is country cosiness personified – a feast of wood beams & flagstones, with a blazing fire thrown in for good measure. Food-wise, the organic kitchen garden provides a plentiful harvest, & the surrounding countryside yields up the rest – the landlord shoots game as well as being master of the magnificent wine list. The kitchen has shifted up a gear of late, turning out a snappy, sophisticated mix of classic & traditional dishes. Stylish starters include Bath chap & ham hock terrine with parsley purée & truffle dressing, while mains strike a fulsome note – maybe pheasant with pommes Anna, cabbage & glazed carrots or local venison with celeriac purée & a pink peppercorn jus. Side orders of ‘posh mash’ keep things pubby, as do comforting desserts such as toffee apple crumble – but this is about as classy as a pub can be.