Ground Floor Dining Room
Do the smart thing and book well ahead if you want to experience the sense-tingling thrills of Daniel Clifford’s cooking. His style may be classically minded, but it comes with an innovative streak, although impressive technical ability is applied even-handedly in the pursuit of flavour rather than showing off. Much is still made of unexpected contrasts, as in a stunning starter of seared scallops with a succession of textures and flavours such as celeriac, truffle, Granny Smith apple and caramel, while his unmistakable modern approach sees roast brill teamed with surf clams, cucumber, wasabi and sorrel. By contrast, char-grilled beef with béarnaise is an impeccably executed take on a classic. Like everything else that arrives from this two-Michelin-starred kitchen, desserts are an absolute joy to behold and savour. Service is spot on and the Victorian villa by the river Cam is serenity itself, with the conservatory dining room overlooking a walled garden.