Now into its fourth decade, this Glasgow institution is synonymous with Scottish produce, although it manages to sidestep most of the tartan clichés along the way. The menu lists plenty of indigenous provisions with sound regional provenance, but there’s no beef with a Rob Roy roulade or other such kitsch. Instead, look out for dishes such as peat-smoked Finnan haddie ceviche with celeriac rémoulade & a Scotch quail’s egg, or marinated haunch & loin of Galloway venison served with a rösti, rhubarb, red cabbage, green peppercorn & Drambuie sauce. The ground-floor restaurant is pricey, but you can eat more affordably in the upstairs brasserie – think Dumfriesshire lamb & prune tagine or Seil Island crab salad. Meanwhile, Sunday lunches tout the likes of Girvan-landed mackerel with kiwi sauce, butternut squash ribbons & crispy cauliflower. The wine list is one of the finest in Scotland.