Ubiquitous Chip

Scottish produce is the main selling point at Ronnie Clydesdale’s thirty-something restaurant, so there’s plenty of venison, haggis & beef on the menu. Fortunately, the Chip is Scottish without resorting to tartan cliches, so the wood pigeon may come from Perthshire & the ling be landed at Scrabster, but there is no beef with a Rob Roy roulade or other such kitsch. Instead, look out for dishes such as Girvan-landed mackerel with pomegranate compote, or cauliflower creme caramel studded with Scotch Bonnet chillies. The ground floor is pricey while the upstairs brasserie is more moderate with dishes such as slow-braised silverside of beef with rich treacle gravy, or chicken leg stuffed with black pudding. The Sunday lunch set is a short choice, three-course affair with a glass of fizz for £17.95, & mixes new ideas such as a warm salad of squid with mussels & chargrilled potatoes in a tarragon bree, with old favourites like Orkney organic salmon fishcakes with tartare sauce & saute potatoes. The wine list is one of the best in Scotland.