This Glasgow institution turned 40 back in 2011 and it remains synonymous with Scottish produce – although the kitchen manages to sidestep most of the tartan clichés along the way. The menu lists plenty of indigenous provisions with sound regional provenance, but there’s no Brigadoon beef with a Rob Roy roulade or other such kitsch. Instead, look out for dishes such as organic Orkney salmon mi-cuit with beetroot ribbons, candied lemon and horseradish or haunch of Galloway roe deer with golden beetroot, confit fennel, wild mushrooms and kale. The ground-floor restaurant is pricey, but you can eat more affordably in the upstairs brasserie – think Inverurie minute steak with skinny chips and garlic butter or Loch Melfort mussels steamed in a smoky broth. Sunday lunches and theatre menus pull the crowds, and the wine list is one of Scotland’s finest.