A breezier, less formal and cheaper alternative to Rick Stein’s flagship Seafood Restaurant (which also has bedrooms), St Petroc’s occupies a handsome white Georgian building with bags of character. The accommodation boasts lots of luxury touches and the bistro appeals with its lively vibe, light colours, contemporary art and user-friendly, Euro-accented menu. Stein’s trademark fish dishes play their part, but that’s only half the story: alongside the likes of curried crab mayonnaise, grilled lemon sole with brown shrimps or scallops with pumpkin seeds, serrano ham, chilli and coriander, you’ll also find sharing boards, goats’ cheese bruschetta, bavette bordelaise and pork chops with buttery cider sauce. To finish, try lemon tart or classic Paris-Brest – a delectable confection of choux pastry and whipped cream. The wine list offers a good range of affordable styles and varietals to match the food.