Over the years, Christopher Wicks & his youthful kitchen team have taken Bell’s Diner to new culinary heights, thanks to their expertise & simply described, modern British dishes. Roast pigeon, for example, is served with game liver parfait, raisin purée & medlar jelly, while turbot could be teamed up with oxtail ragoût, chive gnocchi & sage. Starters such as cannelloni of goats’ cheese, with celery, apple, walnut & pickled winter salad hit the target, & desserts include a stunning apple trifle with a ginger sponge, vanilla, cider granita & apple texture. If you can’t decide, the tasting menu is well worth considering. Dishes benefit from the best local produce, & the setting is relaxed.