Not for the calorie-counting, this traditional French kitchen probably uses more cheese and cream than three or four modern restaurants put together. But don't let that discourage you. As the large fanbase knows, the results are utterly delicious. Seafood pancakes come creamy and generously filled, a perfectly rare fillet steak with a madeira wild mushroom sauce. Move on to cheese for afters or opt for a light citrusy mousse. The setting is delightful, as is the service and the thoughtfully composed wine list.