Michael Caines at ABode

Located in what is reputedly the country’s oldest hotel, just across the road from Exeter’s gothic cathedral, this stylish, contemporary restaurant provides a stark modern contrast to its historic setting. Owner Michael Caines may be expanding his Abode Hotel empire (in Glasgow & Canterbury with more to come) & shaking the pans at Gidleigh Park, but his presence is felt in seasonal menus that might include salad of quail with crispy belly pork, celeriac & walnut salad, poached turbot with wild garlic, asparagus, morels & broad beans served with a Gewurztraminer sauce, & free-range duckling with braised button onions, caramelised gnocchi, spring green cabbage & a light spiced jus. Homemade ice-creams & sorbets are a speciality & are often served as part of a more elaborate dessert, as in vanilla bavarois with fresh berries, raspberry tuile & creme fraiche sorbet. The extensive wine list is organised by grape variety & kicks off with a page of reasonably priced global house recommendations but prices inevitably soar. The kitchen also serves the hotel’s relaxed MC Cafe Bar.