Michael Caines at ABode

Located in what is reputedly the country’s oldest hotel, just across the road from Exeter’s gothic cathedral, this stylish, contemporary restaurant provides a stark modern contrast to its historic setting. Co-owner Michael Caines may be expanding his Abode Hotel empire & shaking the pans at Gidleigh Park, but his presence is felt in seasonal menus that might involve wild mushroom raviolo with baby spinach, roast ceps & mushroom velouté or roast partridge with quince purée, braised chicory, marinated raisins & Gewürztraminer sauce. Homemade ice creams & sorbets are a speciality & are often served as part of more elaborate desserts, witness an assiette of apple involving a mousse & crumble as well as apple & Calvados ice cream. The extensive wine list kicks off with a page of reasonably priced global house recommendations, but prices inevitably soar. The kitchen also serves the hotel’s relaxed MC Café Bar.