The Sportsman

Although it's not far from trendy Whitstable, Seasalter seems a hundred miles from the bustling Kentish town. The Sportsman, hidden away at the far end of the village on the fringes of the marshes, appears desolate & run down at first glance - but ignore the shabby exterior. Inside, the coastal light sweeps through an airy room with scrubbed tables decorated with jars of fresh wildflowers. Fresh-baked breads are brought to diners while they wait for their meals, & the malty taste of a delicious soda bread hints at pleasures to come. Enormous oysters - served au naturel or jazzed up with hot, spicy slices of chorizo - are a great way to kick off the meal. Mains might include a fork-tender belly of pork atop a mound of creamy mash or simply seared fish fresh from the day's catch - it depends on what's in season that day. Leave room for one of the superb puddings.