Oscars Restaurant

The restaurant is very beautiful and the decor smart, quite stunning. Intimate areas with lovely furnishings and drapes. The night we dined there was a large function in the other hall in the hotel. Whether this took the edge off the cuisine, I cannot tell. The starter of Crab cakes was a bit of a joke! Three malteser size round balls on a tiny bed of lettuice, all three would have been one mouthful! I really mean Malteser size honestly. Nothing to resemble a crab cake. They were however, very nice, tasty. I ordered steak as a main, it was disappointing, not tough, but not the best. We both had the cheese course, very good indeed. A fine selection with grapes etc served in a most attractive way. A note to the chef..this should be fine dining, it just missed the boat. I would try it again, to give you another chance.

If you have been to Oscar's before, the stuffy Edwardian decor has been replaced by chic pale grey walls, bevelled mirrors and gilded candelabra. All is now light. Banquettes are the best tables to bag. The website needs a new photo and could do with a menu to download for those of us who dither. If its good enough for The Dorchester its good enough for De Vere. Something tells me they're not that good with technology. I can't fault the atmosphere, nowehere can be described as buzzing in mid january, but I would have liked the fire in the bar to be lit.

The Dorset dressed crab, however, was the best I have had – sweet and succulent. Perfectly seared scallops left my guest wanting more vanilla cream foam – if you're going do contemporary, do it; no half measures. Delicious but not local and seasonal, as the scallops were from Cornwall and accompanied by pea puree in January. The duo of Goosnaugh duck – roasted breast; confit of leg, balanced by spiced apple chutney, melted in the mouth. Cornish fish stew with root vegetables was accomplished with distinct flavours of each fresh and smoked fish.

Starters are about £4.95 for soup to £13.95 and mains average £20. The British Classics menu is good value at £30 for three courses. Service was attentive without being intrusive, not just for us but the other diners as well.

For puddings we shared an upside down apple tarte with pearl barley ice cream £10.95 for two. Coffee was taken in Wilde’s Whisky snug where over 150 different drams awaited. This understated and welcoming bar has a Scottish air without the highland pastiche. More chairs would be needed if the restaurant ever fills to capacity.

I will go back, as Oscar's is on track to become Bournemouth's best hotel restaurant. However, the menu is a little ‘safe’. DF Paul Muddiman doesn't want to offend regulars, many of whom are fully paid-up members of the Grey Brigade, but he won't win any Michelin stars playing it safe, and actually by getting out and eating in Bournemouth, he would find exciting food and ingredients on his doorstep. The younger generation here demand more and have the money to pay for it.

Got to finish now, as my Gran is taking me on an away-day to Bray…