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A weird & wacky conversion has turned this 16th-century pub into a curious little hotel, complete with a large, kitsch garden & several dining options. In contrast to the mad decor (which includes a full-size stuffed bear), the kitchens are about as sound as they come, delivering wonderful food & impeccable service. In the Thai brasserie a brigade of chefs rustles up soups, salads, noodles, authentic curries, stir-fries of Aberdeen Angus beef, slow roasts of ox cheek or pork belly & fish dishes like steamed sea bream fillets with ginger, shiitake mushrooms & soy sauce. By contrast, the main dining room flies the flag for British classics. For sheer decadence, head for the bar, where you can sip Champagne & pick ‘n’ mix between the two menus. All of this & a wedding licence too.

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