The Star Inn

Andrew and Jacquie Pern, Yorkshire’s most famous gastro-couple, seem to have amicably resolved their much-publicised differences: she now runs the nearby Pheasant Hotel, while he steers things at The Star, championing seasonal produce and exploiting the Yorkshire larder to best advantage. Fish and game always play a part – as in his North Sea fish ‘pye’ or a cottage pie made from Harome roe deer – but there are clever, contemporary touches too. A risotto of Whitby crab is embellished with wilted curly kale, sardine croquette and lobster froth, while locally shot mallard might appear with citrus forcemeat, mulled pineapple, sticky red cabbage and bramble juice. The heart of this gorgeous 14th-century thatched inn is still the bar, where you can eat without booking amid oak furniture, brass ornaments and touches of tartan; otherwise take advantage of the sheltered front terrace and garden.