Famous as a brothel at the turn of the century, this colourful residence by the banks of the river Foss is now in the salubrious business of satisfying customers with its moody vibes, cosy nooks, eclectic artwork and modern food. Cleverly conceived fish dishes are the stars of the elaborate menu, which might offer anything from roast cod with ham-hock hash, chilli emulsion, pineapple marmalade and poached egg to Scottish salmon with saffron and cockle risotto, pickled samphire and squid-ink foam. Meat eaters might go for char-grilled chicken breast with confit wing and sweet potato purée, while dessert could bring dark chocolate and espresso délice with fig roll and whipped Amaretto. The food is matched by an intelligent global wine list and prices are fair. Behind the restaurant are six boutique Blue Rooms for overnight visitors.