‘There’s nothing brassy about Melton’s’, chimes a fan of this old charmer, which has been pleasing York’s foodies for more than two decades. The place is still ‘as cute as a button’ with quaintly dated murals on the walls, rather cramped tables, well-worn soft furnishings and a bevy of affectionate staff with ’quiet charisma’. Michael Hjort’s food is original, fairly priced and dependant on proper local sourcing across the board. Menus change regularly, but good calls have included warm golden beetroot with goats’ crème fraîche, perky scallops with caponata and a duo of marinated lamb with soft polenta, swede purée and cavolo nero. An excellent British and Irish cheeseboard is always at hand, and warm Yorkshire parkin with toffee crunch ice cream is a perennially popular dessert. Modestly marked-up wines are in tune with Melton’s admirable ethos.