Take one self-assured chef/patron & a pretty thatched pub within driving distance of Cambridge, add an enterprising list of wines – plus clean-cut, Med-inspired food – & you have the effective blueprint for a popular destination. The menu features dishes such as risotto of smoked haddock with fennel, chives, parsley & crème fraîche followed by char-grilled leg of Cornish lamb with cannellini beans braised in olive oil, marjoram, slow-cooked fennel & an anchovy & rosemary salsa. Drinkers are also in for a treat: few 100-bin wine lists have such an eclectic & stimulating choice at such affordable prices. All in all, a most civilised prospect.