Take one self-assured chef/patron and a pretty thatched pub within driving distance of Cambridge, add a lovely conservatory dining room, pretty alfresco opportunities and an enterprising wine list – plus clean-cut, Med-inspired food – and you have the blueprint for a smart out-of-town destination. Richard Stokes has been at the helm here for some 20 years and has evolved a vibrant modern style based on supplies from a dependable network of producers, growers and fishermen. The daily menu might offer the likes of langoustine custard with zampone, sea herb foam and garlic crumbs ahead of hand-rolled panzotti pasta with local ricotta, nettles and green garlic or stinco di maiale (slow-cooked pork shin with lemon peel, garlic, risotto milanese and gremolata). Drinkers are also in for a treat: few 100-bin wine lists have such an eclectic and stimulating choice at such affordable prices. In short, a most civilised prospect.