Pheasant at Keyston

On a wet dark evening I drove through the village four times before finding the place. In fact I had abandoned the search after the 3rd attempt but on driving through to head back to the A14 my headlights picked out a tiny wooden sign. It pointed down a road I'd already tried, but upon giving it a second go I finally detected the pub, virtually unlit.

In I went, and the interior atmosphere corresponded exactly with the experience so far. I thought I was the only customer, but then some low murmuring indicated two couples concealed in the restaurant section around a corner.

Two staff, who gave the air of being involved in the place so perhaps it was the owners, seemed hell-bent on maintaining the absence of bonhomie. Even the manner of providing the menu and asking if I wanted a drink was curt and unsmiling.

I chose from the specials on the board. A lovely first course was followed by sausage and mash. The trouble was, that's all it was – no accompanying vegetables. Apparently everything is extra, although this isn't explained on the specials board and nor did Mr Grimface or his colleage Mr Curt bother to mention it when I ordered. I'd lost my appetite by this time so perhaps that's why the main course tasted very ordinary as well as being meagre.

The proprietors and those who have rated this place need to be aware that catering is all about hospitality, ambience, customer care and consideration, and a host of other factors, in addition to the food on the plate.

Update: A second visit a year later showed that nothing had changed!

The Pheasant at Keyston lives up to its reputation – and the description in my guide book. Driving along the A14 I often get bored as well as hungry so I have factored in a stop at the Pheasant on every trip. It is always warm, friendly, inviting, comfortable and by the time I've eaten a hearty meal I am ready to get back on the road and continue driving all night. The great thing about the food is that the menu changes all the time. Every visit I am surprised by some new addition. In line with current thinking, they really do serve local food, made on the premises and sourced from nearby if possible. One day I asked if this applied to the delicious beef I'd just eaten. One of the locals propping up the bar took me over to the window, pointed to a group of very attractive cattle munching the hedge and said, ' see that one over there? The brown heifer? Well I've got her earmarked for my birthday feast, honest injun.' When I raised my eyebrow in possible disbelief he added. 'an I'd swear it on my grandmother's grave'. I was convinced. It is a tragedy that I am always driving and have yet to take a driver with me as the wine list is superb and so is the quality of the beer – or so my friend with the deceased grandmother tells me. I used to stop at the motor way services just south of Birmingham but not any more. I prefer to spend a couple of quid more and eat a meal so good that I'll be thinking about it all the way home.