In the chic and cool Razzi, Cardiff's ritzy Hilton has found a restaurant to match its five-star status – at least in quality, if not in price. At lunchtime, buffet starters followed by main courses from a limited carte are good value – try the Parmesan battered chicken with pesto dressing served with garlic and herb polenta, for example. Evening diners are also offered budget options, the table d'hote featuring the likes of melon with Parma ham followed by magret of duck with Lyonnaise potatoes, parsnip puree and redcurrant jus. In short, lots of classic techniques, classic combinations and few surprises - which is sometimes just what the doctor ordered, especially when traditional roast dinner is an ongoing feature of both the day and evening menus. The a la carte continues in a similar vein and service matches the overall quality of this welcome addition to the city centre.