36 on the Quay

Set smack beside the small cobbled quayside & old cottages overlooking the harbour, this 17th-century building comes with a surprisingly modish interior – the dining room’s neutral tones enlivened by vibrant paintings & white leather chairs. Ramon Farthing’s confident, complex, Michelin-starred cooking puts a contemporary spin onto the classical French repertoire, & his innovative, fixed-price menus are defined by seasonal ingredients, precise flavours & flawless combinations – plus a passion for showy presentation. As befits the coastal setting, fish plays its part, but you’re just as likely to find the likes of roasted quail breast & confit legs (perhaps served with seared chicken livers, caramelised apple, hazelnut & grapes with sherry vinegar), as well as beef fillet & braised shin with confit potatoes & a red wine sauce. The extensive wine list is reasonably priced, given the 'rather upmarket’ labels on offer.