Squirreled away down its own private lane, Ockenden Manor resolutely upholds the traditions of English gentility, combining Elizabethan pedigree with nine cares of fastidiously nurtured grounds & a requisite quota of hand-painted ceilings, stained glass windows & antiques. However, Michelin-starred chef Stephen Crane’s gastronomically soothing menu is the real attraction here, & his line-up of accomplished modern dishes yields the utmost satisfaction from impeccable ingredients – perhaps Carlingford oysters served au naturel, in a beignet & as a fricassee with cucumber & horseradish. Elsewhere, a galette of Balcombe pheasant breast might be teamed with Brussels sprouts & butternut squash, while South Coast cod comes with courgettes, fennel, mussels, bouillabaisse & tapenade gnocchi. To conclude, desserts promise favourites such as caramelised lemon tart with blackcurrant sorbet or more wacky ideas like salted peanut crème brûlée.